Home insurance is one of those tedious necessities with its own vocabulary surrounded by agents and salespeople. The good thing is that those salespeople all want you to be as fully covered as possible reducing your chances of coming up short in the event of fire damage. In addition, home mortgage lenders require proof of adequate property insurance as long as the loan is outstanding and often the cost is incorporated into your home payment. Spread out over 12 months, the annual insurance premium is a trifle compared to principal and interest payments.

Nevertheless, it is important to understand some of the vocabulary and to make sure you have good coverage. Situations change — your home value could have appreciated drastically or, in the wake of the sub-prime mortgage crisis in 2008, depreciated drastically; construction costs can go up in areas with significant new development, etc. Look on the following as a sort of primer in property insurance or the basis of questions to ask your agent:

• There are three types of coverage: Replacement cost pays the cost of replacing the property without regard to either depreciation or appreciation; extended replacement cost will pay over the coverage limit if construction costs have increased — generally not more than 20 percent of the limit, and actual cash value, which provides the cost for replacement less depreciation. The last coverage is not a good idea in any scenario.
• The coverage limit is the maximum amount the insurance company will pay. Keep an eye on that limit if homes in your area are appreciating and definitely increase it if you have done upgrading or refurbishing. Your mortgage company will make sure the home is covered for the amount of the loan — it’s your responsibility to make sure it’s covered for its true value.
• Household contents are figured as a percentage of the value of the home — usually about 50 percent. Make sure that percentage will cover your personal property. If you have collectibles or valuable jewelry or art, ask the agent about the availability of specific coverage. There are collectible insurers who cover such odd items as barbed wire or airline air sick bag collections. As long as you know your collection has a value, ask questions. Companies that specialize in home insurance may not cover collectibles or high-value items, but they can steer you in the right direction.
• Property insurance is a multi-peril policy that will include coverage for a variety of risks like fire, smoke, lightning, windstorms, hail, vandalism/theft, etc. Interestingly, some perils in areas where those perils are prevalent are not covered — earthquakes in California, for instance. Make sure you fully understand any exclusions and that all the structures on the property are covered.
• Some insurance policies cover alternative living arrangements if your home is damaged, even through the reconstruction phase. If living in a motel for months would constitute a serious financial hardship, consider including this provision in your policy.

Rural Home Insurance

Finding rural home fire insurance can be difficult, especially in locations where you really need it.

One issue with some rural areas is the simple act of finding someone willing to cover your property. As mentioned on our Wildland Fire pages, some communities are not within fire protection districts. State agencies will respond to wildland fires, but their expertise is in fighting brush fires, not protecting structures. Those communities are identified as Class 10 — basically, the worse case scenario for insurance companies, the bottom of a scale that goes from 1 to 10 — regardless of whether there are hydrants near the home or water sources on the property. You may end up with an urban agent surveying your property with fear in his eyes, getting in his car, speeding up your rural driveway, and not returning your calls.

If this happens, check with the State or County Farm Bureau. You may only have a family orchard, vegetable garden, and pets, but that doesn’t matter. Recognizing the difficulty of rural property insurance, the Farm Bureau may have policies available that will cover you despite the fact you gain no farm income from your property. You’ll have to join the Farm Bureau, but at least they’ll return your calls.

For many rural families, getting livestock evacuated adds an extra layer of planning in the event of a wildland fire. By livestock, we’re primarily talking about horses or 4-H and FFA project animals. Professional farmers and ranchers look at their livestock as assets and have years of experience caring for those assets and the equipment to do what is required in an emergency. The same can be said for stables and professional horse operations. They have the advantage of safely fenced open areas, horse trailers and other resources. Those who need the following guidelines are rural home owners with horses on the property.

Community Planning

Like the information on fire threatening your home, pre-planning makes the whole process easier. Some communities, usually following a major fire event, band together to develop a community evacuation plan for horses. This plan should include the following information and components:

• Information on the location and number of animals in the area, contact information for all owners, an inventory of horse trailers and tow vehicles.
• Identify animal rescue groups in your area as well as all available sites that can safely take evacuated animals. These sites should be considered safe from wild land fire danger.
• Identify all routes out of the area as well as into and out of horse properties.
• Information on any medical or physical conditions of all animals as well as the group dynamics for multiple horse owners. Horse owners know which of their animals will panic if not moved with a “buddy,” if a horse is dangerously aggressive with other horses, etc. This isn’t touchy-feely, chick information. Strangers loading animals in an emergency situation is hectic enough without setting off an equine war or panic attack. We may think of them as pets, but they outweigh us by a bunch.
• Identify staging areas for trailers, personnel and rescue agencies based on multiple fire scenarios as well as cell phone numbers of participants, both rescuers and rescuees.

Personal Pre-Planning

If a community plan for livestock evacuation isn’t in the cards for you, pre-planning is even more vital. You’re on your own, but can still reach out to agencies and  to provide help.

• If your immediate neighbors do not own horses, let them know what you expect them to do or not do if a fire threatens and you are not home. Remember, a frightened animal in the hands of a novice can be more dangerous than a fire.
• Keep a rope and halter with your name and phone number on an attached plate near the corral gate or stall door. If you have multiple horses, have enough halters and ropes available for each. Conventional nylon or leather halters are universally easy to handle; rope halters can look like string puzzles to those not familiar with them.
• Identify and make arrangements with friends and neighbors who can assist in an evacuation as well as public or private stables in your area. Familiarize yourself with local large animal rescue agencies. Let them know your location, the number of animals you own and any special requirements they may have, also provide your contact information. These could be your evacuation points or sources of trailers or both.
• Train all your horses to load in a variety of trailer configurations, if at all possible. If you own a horse trailer that will take all your animals and are always at home, don’t sweat it. If you have to rely on help, you won’t know what trailer will show up to save your horses. If you have a foal or new animal, teach them to handle well and load safely before their first fire season.
• Keep your vaccination records, registration papers and photos with other important papers. If you live near the border of another state and there is any chance your animals will be evacuated out of state, know what is required to cross state lines with horses or other livestock.
• Never padlock horse corrals or stall doors.
• If you feel comfortable riding and/or ponying your horses to safety, familiarize yourself with trails and access roads in all directions away from your home and preferably to a pre-determined location. If you don’t have experience ponying your animals, a fire evacuation is not the time to learn.

First Evacuation Phase

Now, we’ll walk you through the same three phases of evacuation we referred to on the family evacuation page, incorporating your horses into the scenarios. In the first phase, there’s a fire nearby and conditions are dangerous.

If you’ve developed a community evacuation plan, follow it.

• If you own a horse trailer that can evacuate all your horses, hook it to the tow vehicle and park the rig facing your exit. If you have time, load hay and other feed, necessary medications and supplements and tack as well. If the situation is such that your exit can be blocked by the fire, evacuate immediately. If the road to your property is narrow and choked with heavy brush, consider evacuating before the fire gets too close to that brush.
• If your horses are in a large pasture, move them into corrals or stalls. If they require leg wraps to travel, put them on.
• Depending on the conditions, you may want to simply whip through all three phases and evacuate. The options available to a tow vehicle and trailer loaded with horses and all of the above are much more limited than a single family vehicle. You’re not as mobile and you can’t just pull into a motel and wait the situation out.
• If you do not have a horse trailer, contact a pre-arranged friend, stable or rescue agency to let them know the situation. Depending on conditions, they may encourage you to evacuate your animals immediately to be on the safe side. Follow their advice.
• Accelerate your family and home preparations to evacuate.

Second and Third Phases: Evacuate

• If fire agencies declare a non-mandatory evacuation and you can trailer your horses out, evacuate. You’ve got too much to deal with to wait for the final order.
• Immediately notify your potential rescuer if you have no horse trailer or more horses than trailer space. They may assure you help is on the way and ask you to evacuate what you can immediately. One danger is congestion on narrow country roads, especially if some exit routes have been closed off. If you’re dealing with a rescue agency, follow whatever advice they give you.
• You need to be able to make a safe and sane decision about walking your animals on foot or riding them out of danger. If you have a clear route to safety and a nearby, pre-determined place to take them, this may work, assuming you have quiet, seasoned trail horses. If you have doubts or are not confident of your ability to handle this situation or your horse’s ability to handle the situation, don’t do it.

The theme that runs through phases one through three is simple: execute your evacuation plans with as much time as you can. Preparing yourself, your family and personal property and your horses for evacuation is a nerve-wracking experience at best. If done with time on your side, the whole process will go more calmly and more safely.

Evacuating from a wildland fire is a whole new ballgame compared to evacuating from an urban home fire. You don’t know what you’ll come back to; you don’t know in advance where the fire is coming from, you don’t know how long you’ll be gone. The only advantage is you will usually have some time before you have to leave.

You can break evacuation down to three phases: First, you realize there’s a wildland fire in your area; next an evacuation warning goes out and finally, you’re required to evacuate.

First Phase: There’s a Fire Nearby

Veterans of wildland fires realize this first phase can be a dire situation or a “let’s wait and see” situation. Here’s a “let’s wait and see” scenario: There’s a wildland fire within a few miles of your home. Judging from the direction it’s moving, it will not block your exit. The temperature is normal, no significant winds and it’s an isolated incident. In some areas, that means there are no major fires in the state or county requiring an allocation of men and equipment. Fire crews are at work on your fire, equipment is in place. You have little doubt, based on past experience, that the fire will be controlled without an evacuation order.

The dire situation scenario goes like this: Your state or county is on high fire alert due to low humidity, high winds and temperatures. A fire starts within miles of your home. You know resources are stretched thin. It may not matter if the fire is being pushed by winds toward or away from your home. In high fire alert situations, the winds can change in a flash. If this is your phase one, here are a few recommendations:

• You already have your emergency kit, important papers, pet carriers on hand. Place a call to family members not at home to explain what’s going on.
• Corral pets. Bring them indoors, put them in their kennels or a fenced yard. The idea here is to know where they are if the situation escalates. If you have horses or other livestock, we’ve got a page especially for you.
• Put on protective clothing: sturdy shoes, long pants and a long-sleeved shirt. Stick a handkerchief in your pocket.
• Close windows, vents, doors, blinds or non-combustible window coverings and heavy drapes. Remove lightweight curtains.
• Move flammable furniture away from windows and sliding glass doors.
• Put combustible patio furniture inside.
• Connect the garden hose to outside taps.
• If you’re on well water, make sure the auxiliary generator is primed and ready to start. If you have a swimming pool or reservoir, place an emergency pump nearby.
• Wet down shrubs near your home.
• If possible, set up lawn sprinklers on the roof and near above-ground fuel tanks. There are exceptions to water use by homeowners during a fire emergency. Some communities simply do not have the water pressure for hydrants and heavy water use by blocks of homes. You should know what the fire department expects beforehand.
• Cover attic openings, eave vents and sub-floor vents with fire resistant material such as 1/2-inch or thicker plywood.
• Fill trash cans and buckets with water and locate them where fire fighters can find them.

Second Phase: Prepare to Evacuate

You really have to use your judgment here. Some phase two items may have to be incorporated into phase one. This whole “phase” system is not official fire department protocol. You may go from “there’s a fire up the road” to bullhorns telling you to get out now. If this is your first summer in a high risk fire area, check with your closest neighbor. Another rule of thumb: it’s easier to backtrack and undo unnecessary steps than it is to have to do everything in five minutes.

• Update family members by phone, contact your evacuation destination point or quickly determine where the nearest evacuation center is. If your children are in area schools, you may want to contact the school to find out what arrangements will be made. Is the school evacuating? How can you locate and pick-up your children if you have to evacuate your home?
• Park your car in the garage facing out with the keys in the ignition. If you have no garage, point the car down the driveway. From the direction of the fire, determine your exit route.
• Pull out your emergency kit and important papers. Put your cats in carriers. You know your dogs: if leash time is playtime, leash them now while you have the time.
• Shut off all utilities.
• Open the fireplace damper, close fireplace screens.
• If you’re alone and have multiple boxes and bags to get in the car, start loading up.
• To help fire fighters protect your home, place a ladder against the house on the side opposite the approaching fire.
• Close all doors inside the house.
• Depending on the situation, you may want to evacuate before you are required to do so.

Third Phase: Evacuate

• Finish packing the car, load your pets and family members and leave.
• If you are trapped by fire while evacuating, park in an area clear of vegetation, close the windows and vents, cover yourself with a blanket or jacket and lie on the floor.
• If you have either chosen to stay in your home, or have to because all evacuation routes are shut off, stay inside away from outside walls. Close all doors but leave them unlocked. Keep your family together and stay calm. Don’t stay for heroics. Your presence can endanger the lives of fire fighters unnecessarily.
• Once the danger is over, check the roof, inside the attic and any wood piles, trees and fencing for embers or small fires. Keep your windows and doors closed and continue rechecking your home and yard for the next 12 hours.

Pre-planning for a wildland fire threat or evacuation is imperative. The most dangerous predictability of a wildland fire is that it is not predictable. You could be watching the smoke from a distant fire for days or find yourself in the freight-train path of a fire storm.

The smoke has settled over your neighborhood; you’ve been watching the helicopters and water droppers overhead for the last few hours; now police cars are cruising your street with bullhorns warning an evacuation may be necessary.

Your plan includes evacuating when the official word comes, so you grab your emergency disaster kit and…. What, no disaster kit? Okay, we’ll rewind this film.

We’ve talked about escape plansfrom homes. Now, we need to talk about evacuation plans when you don’t really know how you’re getting out of your area or how long you’ll be gone. In the 2007 Southern California wildland fires, San Diego County was so severely impacted all the logical evacuation centers were full by the time the North County town of Fallbrook was hit. Residents ended up being sent 50+ miles north into Orange County. Nearly a week after the first communities were evacuated, families were still sleeping on cots in gymnasiums.

Good pre-planning comes down to two exercises:

• Make an evacuation plan. This includes scouting all the available routes out of your community. If possible, both logistically and economically, identify where you’ll end up at the end of each route. This could be with friends or relatives or a motel. The last resort would be an official evacuation center.
• Assemble an emergency kit. The best kits will include the list of supplies that follow. Put aside these items so you won’t have to scramble around pulling clothes out of drawers or medications out of cabinets. Stash your supplies in duffel bags, backpacks, suitcases or trash bags. It doesn’t matter as long as the container is sturdy. If duplicating items is not feasible, tack a list of what’s missing to the kit for quick retrieval.

Emergency Kit

• A three day supply of water (one gallon per person per day) and food that won’t spoil. This is your worst case scenario and can be adjusted down in communities near large metropolitan areas.
• A change of clothing and shoes for each person plus blankets or one sleeping bag per person.
• A first aid kit including family member prescriptions and medications for a week.
• Emergency tools: battery powered radio, flashlight and extra batteries for both.
• An extra set of car keys, a credit card, cash or traveler’s checks.
• Sanitation supplies and special items for infants, the elderly or disabled family members.
• An extra set of eyeglasses, a cleaning kit for contact lens wearers.

Documents and Important Papers

This could be a challenge for some of us. Find all your important papers: taxes, birth certificates, home documents, insurance policies, pink slips on vehicles, etc. A good way to figure out what is important beyond this brief list is to think back to the last time you applied for a job or a credit card or loan: what did you have to scrounge around to find? Take last month’s credit cards and any other monthly billing statement and write down account numbers and phone numbers to call to replace or provide a change of address. If you have any insurance coverage on jewelry, art or collectibles, etc., take photos of the items and put them with sales receipts. Put all these documents and lists and photos in one place–preferably a metal box you can grab quickly. If you keep them in a file cabinet, keep them grouped together and indicate on the tab that the contents go with you in an evacuation.

Other Considerations

• Take some time and discussion to identify what else you want to take. Most disaster victims admit they grabbed family photos. Keep this list of personal valuables as short as possible. If your computer hard drive is on that list, make sure you know how to disconnect all of its peripheral equipment quickly. If a breakable heirloom is on the list, put a box and packing material with your emergency kit.
• Figure out in advance what to do with house pets. Many evacuation centers will not take them. If your evacuation destination will be friends or family, make sure they realize in advance they’ll also be housing your pets. Do a little research to identify motels that will take animals. The alternative will be an animal shelter or boarding facility. Put your pet’s inoculation records with your “important papers.” Give them all collars with ID tags. Purchase carriers for your cats and cage covers for birds. Portable kennels are a good idea for dogs. Bring water bowls.

Over the last 20-some years, the idea of landscaping for fire safety has taken hold, especially in high risk areas. Lush sample gardens have been developed in parks and nurseries to illustrate that a fire safe yard and more effective defensible space doesn’t have to look barren or bland.

Fire resistant does not mean fire proof. Fire resistant plants’ foliage and stems do not contribute significantly to fire fuel which means they can reduce the intensity or at least not intensify a fire. Plant choices will vary with climate. Succulents like ice plant may be the fire resistant ground cover of choice in low altitude, coastal areas of California, but would be reduced to gray mush after the first harsh winters at higher inland altitudes. This site will provide the characteristics and some examples of fire resistant plants, but full lists of what will thrive in your area are available with just a little research. Local nurseries are another good resource. We’ll also list the characteristics of plants to avoid.

The key to a successful fire resistant landscape is maintenance. Keep the lawn mowed; follow the irrigation recommendations for your landscape; prune, clip and lop to reduce debris. A dead or dying fire resistant plant offers no protection.

Many rural communities that are surrounded by open, natural lands promote native plants for landscaping in an effort to discourage non-natives species that can, over time, choke out the natural habitat. Be careful in your selection and placement of natives as some are not fire resistant and in fact fit in the more flammable category.

Do’s

Select plants that…

• Grow close to the ground
• Have a low sap or resin content
• Have a high water content
• Grow without accumulating dead branches, needles or leaves
• Have loose branching patterns with a low volume of total vegetation
• Are easily maintained and pruned or grow slowly
• Are drought-tolerant, in some cases. Drought tolerant plants tend to have smaller leaves or succulent leaves that store water

Choices

• Deciduous plants (go dormant in winter) have a basic chemistry that is less flammable than conifers and have a higher water content in the leaves. Conifers have a high oil and pitch content and tend to be more flammable. If you love your pine trees, keep them limbed, pruned and not right next to structures. Conifers with thick bark, long needles and those that loose their lower branches naturally are better choices.
• Mulch to conserve water content. Organic mulches include wood chips and small bark pieces; inorganic mulches, gravel or rock. If you opt for wood-based mulches, keep them moist and preferably in areas away from the home. Compost or manures will work into the soil, great for the soil but you will have to re-mulch annually.
• A sampling of fire safe plants and trees include lilac, Rocky Mountain maple, honeylocust, spreading cotoneaster, wax flower, honeysuckle, rosemary, African daisy and periwinkle.

Don’ts

The following characterize plants that are highly flammable.

• Have fine, dry growth or retain dead material (twigs, leaves, needles) within the plant
• Leaves, twigs and stems contain volatile waxes, terpenes or oils
• Leaves are aromatic with a strong smell when crushed
• Sap is gummy, resinous and has a strong odor
• Have loose or papery bark

Defensible space could be the most valuable tool in protecting your home from wildland fires. In essence, this is the buffer between your home and the wildland that will either stop a fire or slow it to the extent that fire fighters can save your home. Residents of high risk areas are painfully familiar with aerial photos of homes sitting intact on a block of charred skeletons — homes cleared of brush with specific landscaping that retards or resists flames.

At one time, 30 feet of defensible space was the rule of thumb. In some areas, that space increases to 100 or 150 feet. The best judge of the amount of defensible space required in your specific situation is your local fire department. Like the tips and recommendations in our home fire safety pages, the higher the risk in your area and your situation, the wider the defensible space should be.

There are a few anomalies we need to mention before we get into general guidelines. Some communities have codes that protect natural habitat even on privately owned land. In consideration of fire danger, selective thinning of native growth may satisfy both the fire marshal and the habitat requirements. Check with local agencies if there are habitat restrictions on your property.

One element of defensible space is the clearing of overhanging tree branches and heavy brush five feet from driveways and 10 or more from roads. What if the brush that threatens to choke off the road to your property is privately owned and undeveloped? Check with your local fire department. If the brush creates a serious danger to residents, the owner can be contacted and asked to clear the 10 foot buffer.

Now, how to create defensible space around your home:

• Remove or radically thin flammable native vegetation within your defensible space, whether that space is 30 or 150-feet. The most logical approach is to first determine your fire risk, taking into account slope, wind patterns, etc. If your risk factor is high, multiply your defensible space by 150 percent. Another approach involves landscaping with fire resistant plants within the first 30+ feet around your home and fuel reduction and pruning of both natural vegetation and landscaping to 100 to 150 feet around your home.
• Select fire resistant plants to landscape the area.
• Vary the height of your landscaping and space it out. The taller your plants or trees, the farther apart they need to be. One recommendation is to space trees 10 to 15 feet apart measured at the widest point of mature branch spread.
• Avoid tall shrubs and vines growing against structures.
• Skirt or limb mature trees to one-third of the height. This requires cutting the lower branches. If the tree is 15 feet tall, remove branches five feet up the trunk. Again, depending on your risk factor, some guidelines increase the height of skirting.
• If shrubs and trees create a ladder effect, shrubs adjacent to increasingly taller trees, eliminate that ladder by selectively removing some of the “rungs” or more aggressive skirting of the taller trees.
• Remove dead limbs overhanging your roof and any limbs within 10 feet of your chimney.
• Avoid planting trees that will interfere with electrical lines. If tree branches are growing too close to power lines, call the utility company to prune. Don’t attempt this yourself.
• If you have a heavily wooded area on your property, remove the weakest trees and leave a mix of older and younger trees. Remove low brush and dead growth.
• Check with the local fire department for restrictions on open burning of vegetation waste. Some areas require burn permits and place restrictions on days and times of day burning is allowed. A preferred way to dispose of vegetation debris is at area green waste dumps. Remove scrap lumber from the property.
• Stack firewood and construction materials 30 feet from any structure and clear vegetation within 10 feet of those piles. If you have a propane tank on your property, clear vegetation 30 feet around the tank.
• Keep the landscaping within your defensible space healthy with regular maintenance and irrigation.
• Clear flammable vegetation five feet from your driveway and 10 feet from your road frontage. Prune branches that overhang either your driveway or the public roadway.

This may seem overly academic, but understanding how wildland fires start and progress from a spark and small flame to a firestorm will help you defend your home. As you read the following information, think of the terrain, growth and weather patterns in your area. Firestorms can be unpredictable; they will not always obey the rules of fire behavior. But knowledge of those general rules will help you make good decisions, both in precautions and in the event of an evacuation.

We already know fire requiresfuel, oxygen and heat to start. Three additional elements determine wildland fire behavior: fuel load, weather and topography.

Fuel load is measured by the amount of fuel — usually tons per acre. The fuel source is obvious: trees, brush, dried vegetation. The higher the fuel load, the hotter the fire burns and the faster it will spread. The heat and smoke generated from a brush fire evaporates moisture from adjacent fuel causing it to burn. This is how any fire spreads. The drier the vegetation, the quicker the approaching fire can ignite it.

Fuel type also plays a role. Flashy fuels, small materials like dry grass, leaves and pine needles burn more quickly than tree trunks, logs or stumps. The ratio of the fuel’s total surface area to its volume is the key. Twigs have little volume but relatively large surface area; they ignite and burn quickly like kindling in your fireplace.

Dense, closely packed brush takes longer to ignite than brush that is more spaced out because there is less oxygen available and clustered brush retains its moisture longer. But don’t assume you’re safe if your home is surrounded by dense growth.

Weather is a deadly factor in wildland fires. Given the right mix of temperature, wind and humidity levels, fires are a near certainty. The sun heats and dries fuel allowing it to burn and the fire to spread faster. Since that heat has a cumulative effect, afternoons are the most dangerous times for brush fires.

The biggest and least predictable factor is the wind. The hot, dry winds that swoop out of the western deserts stoke fires with oxygen, dry potential fuel and push the fire in their path. Heavy winds also set up spot fire situations. Embers are blown far in advance of the fire, igniting fuel often as much as a mile from the primary flames. Wind can push flames from ground level brush into trees causing an even faster spreading crown fire. Once a wildland fire gains strength, it can create its own weather patterns including winds called fire whirls, similar to a vertical tornado that can literally hurl flaming debris great distances.

Humidity can slow the progress and intensity of a fire or the lack of humidity can contribute to both the ignition and rapid spread. The most volatile conditions in Southern California are during a Santa Ana wind episode, high temperatures, dry, strong winds and single digit humidity.

Terrain, or more specifically the slope, is the final determining factor in the spread of a wildland fire. Fire travels faster uphill, pushed by winds that naturally flow up a slope. Depending on the steepness of the terrain, a fire can quickly pre-heat fuels in its path. Conversely, slope and natural air flow retard the speed of a fire down hill. There are exceptions to this rule, depending on the force and direction of the prevailing winds.

Wildland fires have always been nature’s way of caring for itself. Forest floors are scoured of choking underbrush, great pines are allowed to grow unfettered, some floral species are even germinated by fire. But today we look at wildland fires in terms of homes and lives lost, acres burned, scenery scarred. We have inserted ourselves into this annual rite of passage and the results can be devastating.

If you look at an aerial photo of the States, you’ll see layers of humanity spreading out from the cities. First subdivisions surrounded by preserved open space, then conclaves of homes on larger parcels and finally small ranches, farms and those who truly want to escape the city. We are drawn to the wildland like moths to a flame.

Whether you blame government management practices, climate change or cyclical droughts, massive fire storms seem to be on the increase. The summer of 2007 marked the most destructive series of wildland fires in California. The following spring, the state was warned that 2008 presented even more danger.

To a certain extent, the “why” of urban/wildland interface dangers doesn’t matter. What’s done is done; what our climate has in store for us will come; we can’t push back the houses; we can’t uncrack the egg. The following information is focused on what you can do to best protect yourself and your family, first, and then your home. The approach we’re taking is for new or prospective residents of these areas. Those of us who have lived in the subdivisions or the back country have already figured it out, or are just lucky. The majority of the information originates with national or California agencies but is appropriate for all Western states and adaptable to any climate or region.

You’re Not There Yet

We’ll start with the assumption that you’ve been bitten by the back country bug and are looking at land. If you’re already in your home, skip to Now You’re There. Newer subdivisions in the West are fire savvy and adhere to building codes that reduce the risk from brush fires. We’re talking actual “rural” or conclaves of homes in a near natural setting.

• Fire travels more quickly up slope. Is the home (or can the home be) situated with an adequate (30 to 100 feet of defensible space) set back from slope tops. Everyone wants a sweeping view in areas of hilly or mountain terrain; what you may end up with is a spectacular view of a fire roaring like a freight train toward your home. Some area planning departments require builders to “maintain the integrity of the ridgeline,” planning-speak for we don’t want to look at your house, we want to see a clean ridgeline, so you may not have total control over where the house sits. If you do, make a safe compromise between the view off your deck and your safety.
• Look at the property in terms of what a fire fighter will see if he has to protect your house. Is there easy and safe access to your home? Is the driveway accessible for fire engines with a turnout to allow for their escape if necessary? Is your address visible from the road? If you’re on a quaint country lane surrounded by brush, you need to be aware that fire captains will not put their men and equipment into an untenable situation. Fire engines weigh 10 times more than the average full-sized SUV. Take that into consideration when constructing driveways and any bridges necessary to cross culverts or stream beds. If the fire is being pushed by high winds toward that charming lane with the potential of cutting off escape and trapping fire fighters, they may have to pass you by.
• If the area you’re looking at is truly rural, check out the distance fire fighters will have to travel to get to you and the roads they will travel. Many rural areas are serviced by volunteer fire departments with back up from state agencies in the event of a wildland fire. Other areas will be serviced by fire protection districts with stations throughout the area. Some communities will have no official structure protection agency at all. In California, the California Department of Forestry is tasked with wildland fires and local districts with structure protection. Determine the coverage in your state, county and in your area.
• What is the source of water once the fire fighters have reached your property? Is the land in a water district or will you have to rely on a well? Is there room for a pond or reservoir on the property? The Fire Safe Council recommends an emergency water supply of 2,500 gallons, or the capacity of a 10-foot diameter above-ground pool. If you will be on well water, you may want to consider a generator to provide water in the event of a power outage. Check the location of fire hydrants on the road to your property.

If the land passes the above tests, congratulations. The home you build, or is already there, has a decent chance of survival.

Now You’re There

You can use the following checklist to determine just how fire safe your home and property is and start to make improvements. The concept of defensible space and landscaping is so important, it will be handled as a separate topic. Building codes, especially in areas prone to wildland fires, are enacted to create the best possible scenario in a fire event. But your home may have been built prior to these codes.

We’ll start at the top:

• Your roof is the most vulnerable part of the home. Those wood shake shingles look great in the country, but untreated shakes are the leading cause of fire loss. Choose non-combustible roofing materials or have those shingles treated. Of the three classification of fire resistant roofing materials, Class A is the most resistant, Class C, the least.
• Use non-combustible screens, 1/4-inch mesh, for eaves, attic vents and windows.
• Rake dried vegetation away from the base of the house and other structures.
• Keep your roof and gutters clear of leaves, pine needles and any dead branches.
• Enclose the undersides of decks with fire resistant materials. Debris collected in these openings can ignite from flying embers.
• Double- or triple-paned windows and sliding glass doors can reduce the amount of heat built up in your home as flames approach.
• Because the greatest perceived danger is from wildland fires, incorporate all the elements of a fire safe home, including an escape plan, found on this site.
• Be aware that a mower blade hitting a rock can cause a spark and lead to a fire. Plus, all gas-powered land equipment is required or should have (depending on the state) to have spark arresters in rural areas.
• Speaking of an escape plan, develop a plan in the event your home has to be evacuated during a fire incident. Find out what accommodations will be made at your children’s schools. Identify all possible evacuation routes away from your home. You won’t know in advance the direction the fire is moving.

We’ve covered home fire pre-planning and escape plans, now you need to now what to do after a home fire. This is the page we hope you never have to reference. But if you do, the information is available.

First a combination of pre-planning and recovery of either valuables or documents.

• Keep photos and sales receipts of valuables. This may be necessary for item-specific insurance but even if you don’t have coverage, documentation will be necessary to write the items off on your taxes.
• Inventory your home’s contents.
• If possible, keep important papers, including the above photos, receipts and inventory, in a fire-proof safe or box. An alternative is to keep the originals off-site, a bank safety deposit box, and copies at home. Include insurance information, social security cards, medication information, credit card account numbers and phone numbers, mortgage documents, etc.

Here is a list of important papers that should be protected from home fires as well as where to go to replace them:

• Driver’s license and auto registration: Department of Motor Vehicles
• Bank books, checking and savings: Your bank
• Insurance policies: Your insurance agent
• Military discharge papers: Department of Veteran Affairs
• Passports: Passport service
• Birth, death and marriage certificates: Bureau of Records in the appropriate state or county
• Divorce papers: Circuit court where decree was issued
• Social Security or Medicare cards: Local Social Security office
• Credit cards: Issuing companies
• Titles and deeds: Records Department where the property is located, city or county
• Stocks and bonds: Issuing company or your broker
• Wills: Your lawyer
• Medical records: Your doctor
• Income tax returns: IRS Center or your accountant
• Citizenship papers: U.S. Immigration and Naturalization Service
• Animal registration papers: Humane Society, local Animal Control office or the breed registry.
• Mortgage papers: Lending institution

Next, the first steps toward recovery from a fire:

• If you do not have insurance, contact the local disaster relief service such as the American Red Cross, Salvation Army or county social services to get help with the immediate needs of shelter, food and other essentials.
• If you are insured, contact your agent immediately. If you have questions about coverage for temporary housing and other immediate costs, settle that up front. As you incur costs, save all receipts. Ask your agent what they require in terms of covering doors, windows and pumping out water. Make sure you clearly understand what the insurance company requires from you. You may have to submit your inventory of house contents.
• Do not re-enter the home until it has been cleared by the fire department. The on-site fire fighters will usually turn off all utilities. Do not turn them back on yourself, contact the utility companies.
• Notify the following: the police department if the house is left unoccupied; the post office of your change of address and your mortgage company.
• You may have to place a value on your personal property and then be prepared to defend that value. Objective measures of value include cost when purchased, fair market value before the fire and value after the fire (salvage value).
• There are restoration services that work with fire damaged structures. Be clear up front with your insurance company who hires and will pay for the service. Their services include securing the property against further damage; estimating and repairing damage; estimating the cost to repair or renew items of personal property; packing, transporting and storing household items; securing, cleaning or repair subcontractors and storing repaired items until needed.

Arson comes in two sizes, large and small. While it’s difficult to picture a cuddly three-year-old felon who swaps Tickle Me Elmo for a pack of matches, 54-percent of all fires are set by children according to the United States Fire Administration. Annually, arson destroys $2 billion in property and 700 lives.

We’ll deal with the larger variety first. It’s nearly as difficult to defend against arson as it is to defend against random muggings, but here are a few recommendations:

• Don’t make it easy. Keep leaves, firewood and any combustibles away from buildings on your property.
• Keep doors and windows locked whenever a building is unoccupied.
• Change locks or retain keys from employees or associates who no longer have a need for them. A disgruntled employee or former friend may choose arson for revenge. If a parting of the ways is particularly nasty, change locks whether you get your keys back or not.
• The same precautions you might take against burglary–security lights, alarms, etc.–could deter an arson. A sprinkler system and/or smoke alarm with an exterior alarm will also help.
• Report any suspicious activity in your neighborhood or rural community.

Child Arsonists

Now for the pint-sized arson. According to experts, fire setting by children falls into four categories basically defined by age and motivation.

Curiosity Fire Setters are usually boys between 3- and 7-years old. As the name implies, the reason is simple curiosity. These fires are set in his hiding places: a closet, under the bed, wherever he feels hidden. Matches and lighters are the weapon of choice with whatever combustibles are available. This year’s Arson Awareness Week, in early May, focused on novelty lighters made to look like motorcycles, guns, etc. A child knows a toy when he sees one and these types of lighters give some credibility to the idea of “playing” with fire. The greatest danger of this type of fire setting is that the child may panic and probably flee the site. Afraid to tell a parent or caretaker what he’s done, the fire could go from fairly harmless to dangerous in a short time. The best way to deal with this type of fire setting is fire safety education.

Crisis Fire Setting focuses on symbolic fuels, someone’s possessions or a significant location. The arsonists are, again, boys from 5 to 10 who are under stress and in trouble. The experts identify these fires are “cries for help” from a child too young to voice his frustrations. The chances of this behavior continuing are great, at least until the child receives counseling or develops better coping skills.

Delinquent Fire Setting involves groups of girls and boys from 10 to 14. The sites are generally outdoors. This form of arson is an off-shoot of the kind of vandalism that should express itself by toilet papering someone’s front yard. Restitution and fire safety education are the best remedies.

Problem Fire Setting requires serious counseling. The setters are boys, from 7- to 12-years old, with a history of problems and aggressive behavior. The target is usually in or near the home and the chances of recurrence are high.

Some of the warning signs include evidence of fire play: burnt matches, clothing or other combustibles and the smell of smoke in the child’s hair or clothing. Some children will show an inappropriate interest in firefighters or fire trucks and place frequent calls to the fire department or 911. Matches or lighters in the child’s room or pockets is another sign. Also, asking or trying to light cigarettes or candles for adults.

If you know or suspect your child is setting fires and is past the curiosity stage, don’t assume the phase will pass. Talk to your child, teach him about fire safety and get counseling if necessary.